NW Vietnam, and Hanoi
Well this is it...I'm leaving on a Jet Plane tomorrow for San Francisco. My last two weeks in Vietnam have been awesome but I'm definitely ready to get home....but before any of that I would like to update on what I've been up to the past few weeks.
I rolled into Dien Bien Phu near the northern Laos border and took a rest day to check out the War Museum. The town is known as the last stand for the colonial French and after they were defeated in 1954 France withdrew from it's colonies in Indochina. Martin Windrow claimed Dien Bien Phu was "the first time that a non-European colonial independence movement had evolved through all the stages from guerrilla bands to a conventionally organized and equipped army able to defeat a modern Western occupier in pitched battle."
The Vietnamese used bicycles during the war to transport food and supplies to the soldiers. After riding around with a loaded bike for 3 months I felt like I could relate with this guy...that is until I read the card that said they carried up to 300 kilos. That's a hell of a lot of weight for a bike and I'm still wondering if that's a typo.
After looking at maps and photos in the museum it was cool to know that I was riding the same stretches of road they had used during the war. I tried to imagine how crazy it must have been 55 years ago.
My pictures on the road in NW Vietnam never seemed to turn out as well as Laos...there always seemed to be a little more haze. This one wasn't too bad though on my second day riding along a river valley.
Can you tell the difference between Laos Ian above and Vietnam Ian below...
That's right...I finally got rid of the beard I had since Cambodia (but I didn't let the street barber touch my hair). You'll also notice that I learned to put a piece of banana between the butter milk cookies for a roadside snack...INCREDIBLE!!!...oh, yeah and I also ditched my helmet (who needs that discomfort anyway)
My first two days leaving Dien Bien Phu I felt amazing. I managed over 100kms both days through mountain roads and surprised myself with how good of shape I was in. However, the end of my second day was a tough 20km climb with 10 degree slopes after I had already gone over 80km. Views like this (which the picture doesn't really justify) inspired me to keep on climbing.
The goal of my whole trip was to reach the Mountain town of Sapa. There were times early in my trip I debated in my head whether to try to climb this road or take another route to Hanoi...It turned out it really wasn't as a hard as I thought it would be but I had almost 3 months of conditioning. On the way up I didn't want the ride to end...I knew this was pretty much the end of the cycling and started thinking about all the places me and the Philippine Stud (that's what I started calling my bike...call me crazy but you get lonely on the road and I liked thinking of my bike as a horse) had been. This is a picture looking back at the mountain road to Sapa.
Me, the Philippine Stud, a Choco Pie in my mouth, and a helmet on my head (just kidding about not needing the helmet. Safety first kids) at Tram Ton pass (1900m elv, highest road pass in Vietnam)...We had made it. I became quite attached to that bike but had been planning to sell it from the beginning. In Sapa I got a good deal for it and said my goodbyes...It was hard :(
After arriving in Sapa I decided I would attempt to climb mount Fansipan (3143 m, 10,300ft). I met an Austrian couple Stephan and Gadriela who were also looking to climb the mountain and we teamed up to get a good rate on a guide/porter.
Like I said we got lucky. Here I am at the top of Fansipan, the highest point in Indochina (Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam).
My man Chu taking a rest at the top
This was a good time...Guys are always asking if you want a motorbike or cyclo ride around the city. After not being able to bike for a few days I was eager to pedal and asked this cyclo driver if I could give him a ride. He accepted...I cruised around for 5 minutes...then he felt like I should pay him so I gave 2000 Dong
I visited the Museum of Ethnology which was really good and helped me get a grasp on various hilltribes I had seen before and their way of life. This is a shot of some water puppets at the museum and later that night I watched a performance in the city.
American Plane at the war museum...
For some reason I've really enjoyed Hanoi and I don't really like big cities. I realize I've been fairly brief with my description of things (as usual)...but I've got to go pack my bags because tomorrow I'm going to America! See you soon.